Church of San Crisogono

Welcome to the Church of San Crisogono!
This is another of Rome’s parish churches, and just like the Church of Our Lady in Trastevere, this one also has a long and glorious past. Dating back to the 4th century, and rebuilt several times later, ultimately in the 17th century, it holds some ancient secrets for us to reveal today. The exterior is mostly from the 12th century, the beautiful façade with the bell tower bears witness of the typical architecture of that time. But let’s go inside, for that is where we are yet to find the hidden past of this sacred building. Look at the beautiful floor mosaics and the high altar from the 17th century. What exquisite artwork! As is often true for the Roman churches of this time there is of course a splendid painting in the ceiling. This one depicts the Glory of Saint Chrysogonus. The columns are taken from other, older temples in Rome, and the frescoes of the Crucifixion were transferred from other churches nearby.

But what of the hidden secret, you think? Well, go over to the sacristy and venture down the stairs. Here you will find several old ruins! Below the church there is actually an older, hidden church that has been excavated and has a lot to tell us about early Roman life. And not only is there the old church, but also some earlier Roman houses. Look around and you will find some basins. The excavators and archeologists aren’t really sure, or at least do not agree upon, what these were used for. Some say that they were pools for baptism by immersion, while others claim that it is more likely that they were used as laundry and dye houses, as this was a commercial area at the time. We will surely not be able to tell, but just looking around at this ancient site gives us the chance to get swept away by time and imagine Rome as it was during the time of the Roman Empire.

When you have come back to present times it is time to take a leap back outside to find a place to spoil our taste buds with the finest Roman food.

Photo Basilique San Crisogono by LPLT is licensed under  CC BY-SA 3.0